Taste
chef Jimmy Horn's roasted yellow pepper with jumbo lump crabmeat
stuffing or his shrimp cocktail, cooked to order and iced just
before it's delivered to your table, and you get a feel for this
chef's sensitivity to truly fresh ingredients.
His specialty is healthy from scratch cooking -- nothing
deep-fried, no MSG, no cream, minimal butter, no microwaving, no
lard, and tomato sauce with no animal products.
Sound dull?
Never.
Just in case your taste buds don't relay the message, this
chef/proprietor includes his healthy cooking policy in the menu.
Horn has a knack for bringing out flavors, highlighting
freshness and putting his heart in his work. As a bonus, he
gives customers generous portions and pricing so low you wonder
how he does it.
His strategy carries a Tuscan flair with value-oriented
offerings on both the menu and wine list focused on Tuscan reds,
from chiantis to fine Brunellos. There's a breezy, free-spirited
attitude about the place that takes in tiled walls,
straight-backed booths, oilcloth-covered tables, bamboo window
shades, six TV monitors and even a print of the Mona Lisa. Just
keep one thing in mind: Everything is prepared to order, so time
between courses may extend beyond what's normally anticipated in
a restaurant.
Horn offers nightly specials on appetizers, entrees, pizza and
desserts. Lucky diners might hit it when those roasted yellow
peppers are on hand -- a steal at $7.95 for a large perfect
pepper crammed with jumbo lump crabmeat. Drizzles of olive oil
give it a satiny finish. I also like the Italian mountain-style
scampi ($5.95 appetizer; $14.95 dinner).
Fresh and sun-dried tomatoes in a delicate garlic/white wine
broth give the nicely sauteed shrimp a flavorful boost. The
partnering herb-dusted flat bread is great for sopping up every
last bit of broth. Horn makes dough for pizzas from high-protein
flour and stone-ground whole wheat flour. They're thin-crusted
and come in 4, 6 or 8 slices ($4.95-$16.95). Our four slices of
pizza Abruzzi ($7.95) were enhanced by wonderfully rich tomato
sauce, fresh mozzarella, Italian sausage, onions, peppers and
roasted garlic. Mesclun-based house salads are dressed in
clean-flavored vinaigrette with a touch of sweetness, or, try
macadamia crusted goat cheese spinach salad laced with raspberry
vinaigrette ($5.95). The tender baby spinach tastes fresh-picked
and the balanced dressing is -- well, we practically licked the
bowl.
I love the hearty peasant qualities of shrimp fagioli ($14.95)
-- the firm white beans, an occasional velvety bite of peeled
eggplant, ripe tomatoes, briny small shrimp and lots of garlic
in a natural sauce bursting with flavor. The same beans are
served over fresh snapper at the same price. Pesce polenta
($14.95) features the fish du jour dolled up in a cornmeal
coating for good crunch, placed over steamed spinach and
tomatoes. It's capped with sun-dried tomatoes and ladles of
aioli sauce. Yummy.
Veal parmigiana ($14.95) is excellent, and meatball madness
($10.95) offers three luscious garlic-studded meatballs with
house marinara for dipping, along with fresh spinach sauteed
with garlic and tomatoes.
Horn's culinary philosophies extend into desserts, including a
surprising addition, bananas foster rum flambé ($8.95). The
flambe theme is weaved into several desserts, but the actual
flames happen in the kitchen. Plain ricotta cheesecake is $4.95,
but for $7.95 I recommend the really scrumptious version, a
raspberry rum flambe crowded with fresh raspberries,
blackberries and strawberries.
What else can you say about a chef dedicated to a food
philosophy that promotes healthy cooking and does it with
vibrant flavors and his own style? How about, "it's a
gastronomic pleasure to meet you."
Please phone in advance to confirm information on hours, prices,
menu items and facilities. For review consideration, please fax
a current menu that includes name and address of restaurant to
954-356-4386 or send to Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd.,
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293.
If you would like to contact dining correspondent Judith Stocks,
e-mail her at judithstocksreviews@yahoo .com or write to her in
care of the Sun-Sentinel.
